June 12-13
Kennedy Meadows, and in particular the General Store during hiking season, is a social biotope all its own. There is a spacious wooden deck, a harried snack bar, a giant hiker box consisting of a slouching table of unlabeled, half-filled ziploc bags. There are locals praising Trump in loud voices over their pancake breakfasts, trolling for liberals. There are dirt-bikers stopping for a bit of gas or beer. And then there are the hikers.
Hundreds of us, all over the place. Hikers who have been there for days, hikers who just stop in for a candy bar before launching themselves into the High Sierra. Lots of self-important hikers declaring that they had figured out how to beat the system and life-hack their way through the snow. Many packs of young men laughing too loud and looking a bit concerned, using each others' company to gloss over the fact that they did not know how to use any of the ice gear they had strapped to their pack.
It's a hiker scene, as Chancey would say. And I am a hiker, no doubt about it. It isn't, however, really my scene. I mean, I love drinking a can of beer in the afternoon, but I hate false bravado. And the population growth on the trail has led to social innovations that remind me of the worst facets of American high school: Jealously maintained cliques and rampant rumor-based fear mongering. Tables would eye me as i walked past, and then return to their discussion of how impossible the crevasses on such and such pass were.
But man oh man am I a curmudgeon, I thought to myself. So I finally just picked a table, sat down, and started talking to the people there. I did a puzzle, or as much of it as its remaining pieces would support. And I did find some pretty cool people. Maybe they were all really cool; maybe I just function poorly in this kind of setting. Given my disastrous social career in high school, this theory totally checks out.
As evening approached, Lily drove up. I gave her a big, beery hug, introduced her arond. Her glazed eyes confirmed for me that she was overwhelmed by the crowd, just like me. We pretty much immediately left for a nearby campground, where we cooked salmon and veggies. Zero miles, but a very good end to the day.
The next day was spent in the serious and heavily neurotic pursuit of packing my pack for the upcoming stretch. I had set my eyes on a big stretch, from Kennedy Meadows a full 178 miles to Vermillion Valley Resort. That means 12 days of food -- or after trying to fit that into my pack, I decided that 10 days would be all I would need -- as well as fishing rod, ice axe, bear can, warmer clothes. I shoved and squeezed and fretted while a very patient Lily waited. Finally, I had a backpack that was filled with everything necessary, but looked like a Jenga tower with a yard sale strapped to the outside. Probably weighed 50 pounds, made me as graceful as an ox, but it would keep me sage and fed for 10 days.
This monumental labor done, Lily and I repaired to the store, where I caight back up with Killer, Hoops, Carolyn, and Alex, the closest things I have to a social group right now. Then we headed back to camp for steak. We met an eccentric but very friendly Japanese man named Sugar, who sang us a farewell song and made us an origami crane; we gave him Budweiser and steak. "American beer very good," he exclaimed. My goodness, the Japanese are a considerate and polite nation.
I was scared of the upcoming section. What would the snow be like? Was I too old for this? Would my backpack break? But I had given myself all the advantages I knew how to: I was rested after double zero days, packed and ready. OK, Sierras. Let's go.
Thursday, June 23, 2016
You'll never make it
June 10-11
The next day's hike brought me down to Walker Pass. This pass, a road crosing with Highway 178, has a lot of meaning for me. For years, this was where I touched base with the PCT when not hiking it. It is low enough in elevation and far enough south that it clears of snow months before the next PCT access to the north, at Kennedy Meadows. It also, being the southernmost part of the Sierras, has enough big-mountain character to clear out my mind over a weekend. I used to get off work Saturday at 2 pm, get in my beater truck, and drive straight down to the trailhead, getting there around 10 pm. I would hike all day Saturday and Sunday, then drive home, getting in in the wee hours Monday. This little patch of this big trail has given me so much comfort, I count it among my friends.
There was quite the crowd when I got there. Long-time trail personality Meadow Ed was there -- faithful readers may remember his Quixotic crusade against using water caches for post-coital hygiene. He promised me a grilled cheese but forgot or decided not to. I think he never did like the looks of me. Yogi, who has written the most widely-used planning guides to the PCT and CDT, was also there, a real trail celebrity. We both started playing this long-distance hiking game in 1999, hiking the Appalachian Trail that year, so we vaguely know each other, and said vague hellos. ("Arno -- I know that name," she kept saying.) A dude named Coppertone made me a root beer float.
The next day's hike brought me down to Walker Pass. This pass, a road crosing with Highway 178, has a lot of meaning for me. For years, this was where I touched base with the PCT when not hiking it. It is low enough in elevation and far enough south that it clears of snow months before the next PCT access to the north, at Kennedy Meadows. It also, being the southernmost part of the Sierras, has enough big-mountain character to clear out my mind over a weekend. I used to get off work Saturday at 2 pm, get in my beater truck, and drive straight down to the trailhead, getting there around 10 pm. I would hike all day Saturday and Sunday, then drive home, getting in in the wee hours Monday. This little patch of this big trail has given me so much comfort, I count it among my friends.
There was quite the crowd when I got there. Long-time trail personality Meadow Ed was there -- faithful readers may remember his Quixotic crusade against using water caches for post-coital hygiene. He promised me a grilled cheese but forgot or decided not to. I think he never did like the looks of me. Yogi, who has written the most widely-used planning guides to the PCT and CDT, was also there, a real trail celebrity. We both started playing this long-distance hiking game in 1999, hiking the Appalachian Trail that year, so we vaguely know each other, and said vague hellos. ("Arno -- I know that name," she kept saying.) A dude named Coppertone made me a root beer float.
It was awesome.
But everything g comes at a cost, right? In this case, the price was that there were a lot of people talking at how to hike the trail, even if they'd never yet finished it themselves. (Yogi, being a really seasoned hiker, took a much quieter tone.) It culminated with Meadow Ed looking me in the eye and telling me to stay at Walker Pass and eat cookies, "because you can't make it to Kennedy Meadows in time for the Saturday night movie anyway."
Slight digression: Kennedy Meadows, my next town stop and the last stop before the high Sierra, once had a movie night on Saturday. The whole community would gather at the general store, which had an amphitheatre, eat popcorn and watch a movie. I saw the Muppet Movie there in 2002. It was awesome. The tradition was crushed when another local business called the intellectual property cops on the general store, which is about as cool as drowning baby rabbits. Back to the story:
"But Ed," I said, "the people at Grumpy Bear's ruined that movie night years ago."
Yogi, without looking up: "Grumpy Bears has new ownership."
So. It was Friday at 1 pm. Fifty miles to the store. Ed told me I couldn't make it, and Yogi told me there was a precious memory of youth to be recaptured.
"Later," I said, stuffing a couple donuts in my mouth as I left.
I"d love to say that the next 50 miles were filled with remarkable occurrences worth retelling, but it was more like an endurance challenge. The pines became more numerous, the joshua trees disappeared. I hiked with a young man named Alex who had a killer pace. I collected water from a spring some 150 yards off trail on a worn-down path through forest, and I slept peacefully beneath the stars. Mostly I hiked, fast and constant, and listened to The Three Musketeers on audiobook. Man, Dumas really likes his swordplay!
And then, at 6 pm on Saturday the 11th, I walked into Kennedy Meadows. The beer-drunk hikers on the porch applauded my approach. My triumph was complete, except for the fact that there
A) was no movie, "we haven't done that in like 15 years, what are you thinking, young man," and
B) the store was closed, so no fresh food and no beer.
Oh well. I did it, so screw you, naysayers.
The scene was kinda wacky. I dined on noodles from my pack next to a very young woman who said she had driven the Hikertown Ferrari. I hung out with a good-natured crew that had all eaten psychedelic mushrooms that day and were just calming down. I finally spent ten minutes in a teepee they have set up. Some crazy man had built a giant bonfire in the middle of the teepee, making it uncomfortably hot; a Brit was talking to an Australian woman who was talking to a Russian emigre. When a fever-eyed man carrying a can of pork and beans, two unfinished beers, and a 70s pulp novel about a grizzly bear gone wrong came in and declared "I AM CROATIAN," I tapped out. Maybe after three days above thirty miles, I could skip the international sweatlodge party. I crawled into bed and let the sleep come.
But everything g comes at a cost, right? In this case, the price was that there were a lot of people talking at how to hike the trail, even if they'd never yet finished it themselves. (Yogi, being a really seasoned hiker, took a much quieter tone.) It culminated with Meadow Ed looking me in the eye and telling me to stay at Walker Pass and eat cookies, "because you can't make it to Kennedy Meadows in time for the Saturday night movie anyway."
Slight digression: Kennedy Meadows, my next town stop and the last stop before the high Sierra, once had a movie night on Saturday. The whole community would gather at the general store, which had an amphitheatre, eat popcorn and watch a movie. I saw the Muppet Movie there in 2002. It was awesome. The tradition was crushed when another local business called the intellectual property cops on the general store, which is about as cool as drowning baby rabbits. Back to the story:
"But Ed," I said, "the people at Grumpy Bear's ruined that movie night years ago."
Yogi, without looking up: "Grumpy Bears has new ownership."
So. It was Friday at 1 pm. Fifty miles to the store. Ed told me I couldn't make it, and Yogi told me there was a precious memory of youth to be recaptured.
"Later," I said, stuffing a couple donuts in my mouth as I left.
I"d love to say that the next 50 miles were filled with remarkable occurrences worth retelling, but it was more like an endurance challenge. The pines became more numerous, the joshua trees disappeared. I hiked with a young man named Alex who had a killer pace. I collected water from a spring some 150 yards off trail on a worn-down path through forest, and I slept peacefully beneath the stars. Mostly I hiked, fast and constant, and listened to The Three Musketeers on audiobook. Man, Dumas really likes his swordplay!
And then, at 6 pm on Saturday the 11th, I walked into Kennedy Meadows. The beer-drunk hikers on the porch applauded my approach. My triumph was complete, except for the fact that there
A) was no movie, "we haven't done that in like 15 years, what are you thinking, young man," and
B) the store was closed, so no fresh food and no beer.
Oh well. I did it, so screw you, naysayers.
The scene was kinda wacky. I dined on noodles from my pack next to a very young woman who said she had driven the Hikertown Ferrari. I hung out with a good-natured crew that had all eaten psychedelic mushrooms that day and were just calming down. I finally spent ten minutes in a teepee they have set up. Some crazy man had built a giant bonfire in the middle of the teepee, making it uncomfortably hot; a Brit was talking to an Australian woman who was talking to a Russian emigre. When a fever-eyed man carrying a can of pork and beans, two unfinished beers, and a 70s pulp novel about a grizzly bear gone wrong came in and declared "I AM CROATIAN," I tapped out. Maybe after three days above thirty miles, I could skip the international sweatlodge party. I crawled into bed and let the sleep come.
Cache money, bro
The desert is, by definition, dry. But the drought in California, most definitely not ended by El Nino, is more than just dry. It is killing off once-reliable springs along the route. This means, in theory, carrying water for insanely long stretches. Carrying water for 30 miles means carrying enough extra to camp with; carrying water for 40 means two gallons or more,16 extra pounds.
But, like, the PCT provides, bro. Or to be more precise, trail angels are stepping up and stocking caches of water along these waterless stretches. Caches make me conflicted. They are only as good as the people who stock them, and good intentions do not suffice. The angles involved also need to foresee giant groups of hikers arriving without warning and using up all the water, a logistical nightmare.
Still, somehow, it all works out. In this case, someone, a very cool someone, is stocking a cache at Bird Spring Pass, which replaces Yellow Jacket Spring, Willow Spring, and McIvers Spring, all once good springs now dry. I hiked into Bird Springs Pass on empty on another big 30 mile day. There was the usual hiker clump reclining around rocks and trees in the shade. I am aware of how solitary this trip has become for me, so I at least made small talk before filling my water bladders and hiking on.
Whatever I think about these hikers being soft, and how this trail should be at least in part about independence from our post-industrial world, caches keep me honest. I like water too. Thanks, Mr. Trail Angel named Devilfish, you are keeping me alive and my pack light. I hiked on up into the hills and slept the sleep of the 30-miler. Not quite the sleep of the just, but it works.
But, like, the PCT provides, bro. Or to be more precise, trail angels are stepping up and stocking caches of water along these waterless stretches. Caches make me conflicted. They are only as good as the people who stock them, and good intentions do not suffice. The angles involved also need to foresee giant groups of hikers arriving without warning and using up all the water, a logistical nightmare.
Still, somehow, it all works out. In this case, someone, a very cool someone, is stocking a cache at Bird Spring Pass, which replaces Yellow Jacket Spring, Willow Spring, and McIvers Spring, all once good springs now dry. I hiked into Bird Springs Pass on empty on another big 30 mile day. There was the usual hiker clump reclining around rocks and trees in the shade. I am aware of how solitary this trip has become for me, so I at least made small talk before filling my water bladders and hiking on.
Whatever I think about these hikers being soft, and how this trail should be at least in part about independence from our post-industrial world, caches keep me honest. I like water too. Thanks, Mr. Trail Angel named Devilfish, you are keeping me alive and my pack light. I hiked on up into the hills and slept the sleep of the 30-miler. Not quite the sleep of the just, but it works.
The innskeeper gets spooked
June 8
I woke up early, but the Angry Tent was already down. The incident remained much on my mind as I hiked that morning, trying to make my way to Golden Oaks Spring. Water sources determine your hiking schedule in the desert, and I needed to get there pretty quick --the water I'd lugged up the hillside was running low. I passed a seep that oozed muddy water across the trail, thought that was the spring and freaked out; someone using a GPS-driven hiking app came by and corrected me. I hate the idea of an app that negates the need to learn map and compass, and I really hate that unmediated wilderness experiences are now replaced with yet more staring at your damn phone. But on the other hand, I was the dumbass trying to strain mud through a bandana to stave off dehydration when there was a cold clear spring .3 miles ahead.
It was beautiful indeed, a shady glen and a trickle of water coming out a pipe set into the hillside. True, the line one had to wait in to get water was yet another reminder of the Too Many People Problem. Maybe the DMV will now remind me of a desert oasis, I thought. But my mind was mainly on other things.
Like, for instance, which of the 20 hikers here was the dude who yelled at me last night? He knew what I looked like, having seen me when he woke up that morning. I was at a disadvantage.
Not for long, however! There was a man glaring at me with poorly-disguised hate from under his sensible sunhat. OK, I said to myself, time to take care of business, wild 'n' mild style.
"Hey," I said, "do you use a Z-Packs Hexamid?"
"Yeah," he responded slowly. He knew the game was up.
"About last night," I said. "I just wanted to apologize." That's how I squash my beefs: I apologize. Way easier than arguing. And hell, it must have woken him up, which must have sucked, I cede the point.
"Oh," he said. Not what he'd expected. "Yeah, sorry if I said anything last night."
"No problem," I responded. "All good."
Which should have been the end of it, except it wasn't, because some people cannot let it be.
"The thing is," he dug in, "you shouldn't shine your light in camp when people are trying to sleep."
"Right," I replied.
"Just so you know."
"Yes," my teeth in full death-clench. Do not seek conflict, I'm telling myself, there is no benefit in it...
"Ok," he said, picking up his vaguely kung-fu staff and his restored mantle of manly pride. "Be well."
I saw him on trail on hour later when I passed him. He was deep in thought, and I did not want to startle him. He and I had had enough conflict, I thought.
"Hello," I called softly when I was ten feet away.
"GAHHHHH," he replied, shocked, lurching off the trail and brandishing his staff. Maybe he doesn't get passed much. My last (and lasting) image of him is a face contorted by fear and surprise as I excused myself and jumped by.
I felt bad. I mean, he was a dick, but neither he nor I really wished each other ill. Some people you should just avoid, I guess.
The rest of the day was passed along jeep roads that made me miss my truck, and a gradual shift in landscape toward big, majestic mountains. I saw a lot of regrettable graffiti by a hiker named Cyborg -- kick him in the shins if you see him. I could feel the Sierras coming on, and I was delighted, as I was with my progress -- another 30 on the books. Man, sometimes it feels good to be fast.
I woke up early, but the Angry Tent was already down. The incident remained much on my mind as I hiked that morning, trying to make my way to Golden Oaks Spring. Water sources determine your hiking schedule in the desert, and I needed to get there pretty quick --the water I'd lugged up the hillside was running low. I passed a seep that oozed muddy water across the trail, thought that was the spring and freaked out; someone using a GPS-driven hiking app came by and corrected me. I hate the idea of an app that negates the need to learn map and compass, and I really hate that unmediated wilderness experiences are now replaced with yet more staring at your damn phone. But on the other hand, I was the dumbass trying to strain mud through a bandana to stave off dehydration when there was a cold clear spring .3 miles ahead.
It was beautiful indeed, a shady glen and a trickle of water coming out a pipe set into the hillside. True, the line one had to wait in to get water was yet another reminder of the Too Many People Problem. Maybe the DMV will now remind me of a desert oasis, I thought. But my mind was mainly on other things.
Like, for instance, which of the 20 hikers here was the dude who yelled at me last night? He knew what I looked like, having seen me when he woke up that morning. I was at a disadvantage.
Not for long, however! There was a man glaring at me with poorly-disguised hate from under his sensible sunhat. OK, I said to myself, time to take care of business, wild 'n' mild style.
"Hey," I said, "do you use a Z-Packs Hexamid?"
"Yeah," he responded slowly. He knew the game was up.
"About last night," I said. "I just wanted to apologize." That's how I squash my beefs: I apologize. Way easier than arguing. And hell, it must have woken him up, which must have sucked, I cede the point.
"Oh," he said. Not what he'd expected. "Yeah, sorry if I said anything last night."
"No problem," I responded. "All good."
Which should have been the end of it, except it wasn't, because some people cannot let it be.
"The thing is," he dug in, "you shouldn't shine your light in camp when people are trying to sleep."
"Right," I replied.
"Just so you know."
"Yes," my teeth in full death-clench. Do not seek conflict, I'm telling myself, there is no benefit in it...
"Ok," he said, picking up his vaguely kung-fu staff and his restored mantle of manly pride. "Be well."
I saw him on trail on hour later when I passed him. He was deep in thought, and I did not want to startle him. He and I had had enough conflict, I thought.
"Hello," I called softly when I was ten feet away.
"GAHHHHH," he replied, shocked, lurching off the trail and brandishing his staff. Maybe he doesn't get passed much. My last (and lasting) image of him is a face contorted by fear and surprise as I excused myself and jumped by.
I felt bad. I mean, he was a dick, but neither he nor I really wished each other ill. Some people you should just avoid, I guess.
The rest of the day was passed along jeep roads that made me miss my truck, and a gradual shift in landscape toward big, majestic mountains. I saw a lot of regrettable graffiti by a hiker named Cyborg -- kick him in the shins if you see him. I could feel the Sierras coming on, and I was delighted, as I was with my progress -- another 30 on the books. Man, sometimes it feels good to be fast.
 |
| Hey Cyborg! YOU'RE AN ASSHOLE! |
No room at the inn
June 7
After picking up mail and some shopping necessaries, Lily helped me by driving my pack around an eight-mike piece of trail between two highways while I hiked the same section, light as a feather. Some people seem to judge slackpacking, as this is called, but if so, fine: I have been judgemental myself about others hitching, so I probably have the approbation coming to me. I can dish it out and take it. Anyway, my good mood was immediately spoiled by the wind again. It could feel it drawing the moisture out of me like a dehydrator, making the map hard to hold.
On the other side of the hill, I packed my bag, collected myself, and said goodbye to Lily. The next section started with a brutal ascent, like 2000 feet or something up over bare, rocky, and -- you know it -- very windy hillsides to a pocket of forest above.
I plugged in a new audiobook and went for it. Aimless dirt and dust finally resolved into trail a mile in, then the switchbacks began. Sun down, stars up, still hiking. I hiked more than an hour after dark, sometimes having to crabwalk sideways facing the crosswind just to avoid being blown over. I was pretty mentally torn down by the whole thing, but the map showed a campsite ahead, so I plugged on. Couldn't camp on a steep rock wall anyway.
It, the campsite, finally appeared. It was just a clump of trees providing wind shelter to a patch of dirt, but it was like finding a Four Seasons on the moon, as far as I was concerned. I stumbled in, murmured greetings to the two tents set up, just in case they were awake.
"TURN YOUR LIGHT OFF. SOME OF US HAVE ALREADY DECIDED TO TRY TO SLEEP " spoke one of the tents. It was, and I don't want to overplay this, but the voice was really aggressive. I responded that, yes sir, I would, and then I did.
"YOU HAVE EVERY RIGHT TO STAY HERE," the tent continued, "BUT WE ARE TRYING TO SLEEP. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP YOUR LIGHT DOWN."
"Yeah," I said, just wanting this to end so I could sleep. "Yes."
"JUST SO YOU UNDERSTAND." I don't know if he was hoping for an apology or what, but it was only 9:15 pm. Not really inexcusable, even for hikers. He would have to be satisfied with the noises of instant potatoes being rehydrated and wolfed down.
It made for a weird night's sleep. He didn't own that land, but I still felt very unwelcome. Too many people, I thought. In previous years, he could have counted on solitude. Well shit, I thought. Welcome to 2016, dude. We all are in the same boat, even if we're not happy about it. Guess we better learn manners.
After picking up mail and some shopping necessaries, Lily helped me by driving my pack around an eight-mike piece of trail between two highways while I hiked the same section, light as a feather. Some people seem to judge slackpacking, as this is called, but if so, fine: I have been judgemental myself about others hitching, so I probably have the approbation coming to me. I can dish it out and take it. Anyway, my good mood was immediately spoiled by the wind again. It could feel it drawing the moisture out of me like a dehydrator, making the map hard to hold.
On the other side of the hill, I packed my bag, collected myself, and said goodbye to Lily. The next section started with a brutal ascent, like 2000 feet or something up over bare, rocky, and -- you know it -- very windy hillsides to a pocket of forest above.
I plugged in a new audiobook and went for it. Aimless dirt and dust finally resolved into trail a mile in, then the switchbacks began. Sun down, stars up, still hiking. I hiked more than an hour after dark, sometimes having to crabwalk sideways facing the crosswind just to avoid being blown over. I was pretty mentally torn down by the whole thing, but the map showed a campsite ahead, so I plugged on. Couldn't camp on a steep rock wall anyway.
It, the campsite, finally appeared. It was just a clump of trees providing wind shelter to a patch of dirt, but it was like finding a Four Seasons on the moon, as far as I was concerned. I stumbled in, murmured greetings to the two tents set up, just in case they were awake.
"TURN YOUR LIGHT OFF. SOME OF US HAVE ALREADY DECIDED TO TRY TO SLEEP " spoke one of the tents. It was, and I don't want to overplay this, but the voice was really aggressive. I responded that, yes sir, I would, and then I did.
"YOU HAVE EVERY RIGHT TO STAY HERE," the tent continued, "BUT WE ARE TRYING TO SLEEP. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP YOUR LIGHT DOWN."
"Yeah," I said, just wanting this to end so I could sleep. "Yes."
"JUST SO YOU UNDERSTAND." I don't know if he was hoping for an apology or what, but it was only 9:15 pm. Not really inexcusable, even for hikers. He would have to be satisfied with the noises of instant potatoes being rehydrated and wolfed down.
It made for a weird night's sleep. He didn't own that land, but I still felt very unwelcome. Too many people, I thought. In previous years, he could have counted on solitude. Well shit, I thought. Welcome to 2016, dude. We all are in the same boat, even if we're not happy about it. Guess we better learn manners.
Tehachapi is for lovers
June 6
Being underslept and beat up by a 36-mile day cleared out any celestial rapture lingering from the night before. Now it was day, in the desert, sun already beating down the door. I had a big fat ridge to get up and over before meeting with Lily and resupplying in Tehachapi. Time to, as my friend Amber would say, put on my big boy pants.
I can remember a time when I loved the sound of wind. The CDT pretty well cured me of that, with its endless exposed ridge walks. I was always being deafened and shoved around by the wind; it never augered well, only potentially bringing cold or harder hiking.
So imagine how I felt hiking through an immense wind farm. Miles and miles of windmills, dunn-colored grasses thinly covering reddish dirt and rocks, and always the wind. It drowned out the podcasts I was trying to use to drown it out. It shoved me around and blew my pee back at me when I relieved myself. I was momentarily charmed by a sheepherder watering his flock, but then the wind shoved me like a high school bully in the hallway between classes. The trail went up, it went over. It took its sweet time descending to the road crossing. There was an idyll of river and trees and road just off to my left, but that was not that trail's plan; it wanted to keep me right up there where I could get some more fresh fucking air. I tied my hat to.my head with my bandana, looking like a Beverley Hillbillies Babushka.
And then finally, there was the road. Lily picked me up, and we drove into Tehachapi. We had BBQ and marveled at how the town's main street is quaint and one block off it got very seedy. It was so delightful to be in her company again, catching up on her career felt like catching up on calories. I am pretty sure that solo, Tehachapi's lasting impression would have been of the homeless addicts trading barbs a block off Main Street; with her it was all smoked ribs and joy.
Being underslept and beat up by a 36-mile day cleared out any celestial rapture lingering from the night before. Now it was day, in the desert, sun already beating down the door. I had a big fat ridge to get up and over before meeting with Lily and resupplying in Tehachapi. Time to, as my friend Amber would say, put on my big boy pants.
I can remember a time when I loved the sound of wind. The CDT pretty well cured me of that, with its endless exposed ridge walks. I was always being deafened and shoved around by the wind; it never augered well, only potentially bringing cold or harder hiking.
So imagine how I felt hiking through an immense wind farm. Miles and miles of windmills, dunn-colored grasses thinly covering reddish dirt and rocks, and always the wind. It drowned out the podcasts I was trying to use to drown it out. It shoved me around and blew my pee back at me when I relieved myself. I was momentarily charmed by a sheepherder watering his flock, but then the wind shoved me like a high school bully in the hallway between classes. The trail went up, it went over. It took its sweet time descending to the road crossing. There was an idyll of river and trees and road just off to my left, but that was not that trail's plan; it wanted to keep me right up there where I could get some more fresh fucking air. I tied my hat to.my head with my bandana, looking like a Beverley Hillbillies Babushka.
And then finally, there was the road. Lily picked me up, and we drove into Tehachapi. We had BBQ and marveled at how the town's main street is quaint and one block off it got very seedy. It was so delightful to be in her company again, catching up on her career felt like catching up on calories. I am pretty sure that solo, Tehachapi's lasting impression would have been of the homeless addicts trading barbs a block off Main Street; with her it was all smoked ribs and joy.
 |
| A shepherd, a water truck, a wind tunnel |
Trail Angel Trail Part III
June 5
The third installment of the Trail Angel Trail took me theough more desert hills, sagebrush and chapparal, and down into the Antelope Valley, a broad flat expanse of true desert one must cross via the LA aqueduct.
But before the aqueduct was the angel. This one is Hikertown, a surreal property on the wasteland's edge. It looks like the set of a Western, fake store fronts saying "saloon" or "town hall." It looks like Pioneertown. The owner has a slightly murky reputation -- mega generous and definitely fanciful, but also prone to attempting to impress young women by telling them he is a Holywood producer, or showing them his Ferrari. Whatever, he has good wellwater in a terrible dry stretch. I filled up, rinsed my socks, showered, and hitched to the nearby store.
Said store, also owned by the Hikertown guy, coughed up a couple days worth of food, a bowl of delicious pozole, and a six-pack of beer.
I was ready for the aqueduct.
I left as the sun was diving toward the hills ringing the western edge of the valley. This was a planned, premeditated night hike, not like my occasional fumbling crashing exhausted extension of an already long hiking day. The low elevation and lack of shade make this a famously good place to night hike.
And it is. The aqueduct, after briefly being open and looking like an inviting concrete river, becomes closed and functions as a 20-foot-wide sidewalk. This removes my main issue with night hiking, that being that I am clumsy in the dark. It left my attention free to wander upward toward the sky. The sunset bled from gold to purple, then finally dusked out, leaving first Mars and then Jupiter and then Vega to appear. Scorpio came out from hiding and caught Mars in its pincers; Big Dipper showed me the through-hikers favorite celestial body, the north star, which then gracefully led into the little dipper.
The third installment of the Trail Angel Trail took me theough more desert hills, sagebrush and chapparal, and down into the Antelope Valley, a broad flat expanse of true desert one must cross via the LA aqueduct.
But before the aqueduct was the angel. This one is Hikertown, a surreal property on the wasteland's edge. It looks like the set of a Western, fake store fronts saying "saloon" or "town hall." It looks like Pioneertown. The owner has a slightly murky reputation -- mega generous and definitely fanciful, but also prone to attempting to impress young women by telling them he is a Holywood producer, or showing them his Ferrari. Whatever, he has good wellwater in a terrible dry stretch. I filled up, rinsed my socks, showered, and hitched to the nearby store.
Said store, also owned by the Hikertown guy, coughed up a couple days worth of food, a bowl of delicious pozole, and a six-pack of beer.
I was ready for the aqueduct.
I left as the sun was diving toward the hills ringing the western edge of the valley. This was a planned, premeditated night hike, not like my occasional fumbling crashing exhausted extension of an already long hiking day. The low elevation and lack of shade make this a famously good place to night hike.
And it is. The aqueduct, after briefly being open and looking like an inviting concrete river, becomes closed and functions as a 20-foot-wide sidewalk. This removes my main issue with night hiking, that being that I am clumsy in the dark. It left my attention free to wander upward toward the sky. The sunset bled from gold to purple, then finally dusked out, leaving first Mars and then Jupiter and then Vega to appear. Scorpio came out from hiding and caught Mars in its pincers; Big Dipper showed me the through-hikers favorite celestial body, the north star, which then gracefully led into the little dipper.
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| How Tinseltown flushes its toilets: The LA Aqueduct |
Hours passed and so did the stars, wheeling down to the west. I have in all my hikes never experienced the stars with as much intimacy as on this one. I am not sure why, other than that my age seems to be bringing with it an increased appetite, voracious sometimes, for knowledge about nature. I have so far learned nature on these hikes experientially -- this mud is solid, that plant stings, that rock will be slippery, that snow is rotten and will not support me -- but now I care deeply about things that do not matter to my survival. I care about the things that will never care about me, and it feels like being set free.
I hiked the last few miles in to camp with a young man carrying the same Grafix three-foot acrylic bong that had been considered absolute state of the stoner art when I went to college. We talked Boy Scouting (he was very, very deeply involved), got lost, found ourselves with the aid of another hiker. She and my companion argued about whether waterless urinals were inherently misogynist; I wondered about how odd it is that human consciousness exists in the universe. Both lines of thought were ended the same way when we reached a water source: By sleep, finally, around one a.m. I had hiked 36 miles and slept in a manner appropriate to that.
I hiked the last few miles in to camp with a young man carrying the same Grafix three-foot acrylic bong that had been considered absolute state of the stoner art when I went to college. We talked Boy Scouting (he was very, very deeply involved), got lost, found ourselves with the aid of another hiker. She and my companion argued about whether waterless urinals were inherently misogynist; I wondered about how odd it is that human consciousness exists in the universe. Both lines of thought were ended the same way when we reached a water source: By sleep, finally, around one a.m. I had hiked 36 miles and slept in a manner appropriate to that.
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