Thursday, June 23, 2016

No room at the inn

June 7
After picking up mail and some shopping necessaries, Lily helped me by driving my pack around an eight-mike piece of trail between two highways while I hiked the same section, light as a feather. Some people seem to judge slackpacking, as this is called, but if so, fine: I have been judgemental myself about others hitching, so I probably have the approbation coming to me. I can dish it out and take it. Anyway, my good mood was immediately spoiled by the wind again. It could feel it drawing the moisture out of me like a dehydrator, making the map hard to hold.
On the other side of the hill, I packed my bag, collected myself, and said goodbye to Lily. The next section started with a brutal ascent, like 2000 feet or something up over bare, rocky, and -- you know it -- very windy hillsides to a pocket of forest above.
I plugged in a new audiobook and went for it. Aimless dirt and dust finally resolved into trail a mile in, then the switchbacks began. Sun down, stars up, still hiking. I hiked more than an hour after dark, sometimes having to crabwalk sideways facing the crosswind just to avoid being blown over. I was pretty mentally torn down by the whole thing, but the map showed a campsite ahead, so I plugged on. Couldn't camp on a steep rock wall anyway.
It, the campsite, finally appeared. It was just a clump of trees providing wind shelter to a patch of dirt, but it was like finding a Four Seasons on the moon, as far as I was concerned. I stumbled in, murmured greetings to the two tents set up, just in case they were awake.
"TURN YOUR LIGHT OFF. SOME OF US HAVE ALREADY DECIDED TO TRY TO SLEEP " spoke one of the tents. It was, and I don't want to overplay this, but the voice was really aggressive. I responded that, yes sir, I would, and then I did.
"YOU HAVE EVERY RIGHT TO STAY HERE," the tent continued, "BUT WE ARE TRYING TO SLEEP. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP YOUR LIGHT DOWN."
"Yeah," I said, just wanting this to end so I could sleep. "Yes."
"JUST SO YOU UNDERSTAND." I don't know if he was hoping for an apology or what, but it was only 9:15 pm. Not really inexcusable, even for hikers. He would have to be satisfied with the noises of instant potatoes being rehydrated and wolfed down.
It made for a weird night's sleep. He didn't own that land, but I still felt very unwelcome. Too many people, I thought. In previous years, he could have counted on solitude. Well shit, I thought. Welcome to 2016, dude. We all are in the same boat, even if we're not happy about it. Guess we better learn manners.

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